The Pont del Diable of Martorell (or Why You Should Never Bet Against a Grandmother)

Marc RL · · 4 min read

Europe has dozens of “Devil’s Bridges”. Apparently the Evil One had an unhealthy obsession with civil engineering in the Middle Ages. But the one in Martorell has something I love, something that sets it apart from the rest: it isn’t just a pretty structure for an Instagram photo; it is physical proof that Catalan cunning is older than the stones that hold it up.

The first time you stand there, what hits you isn’t the legend — it’s the wind. The bridge links the two banks of the Llobregat at a point where the river squeezes into a gorge — the Congost — and crossing it on foot gives you a perspective you never get from the road. You look down and understand perfectly why, centuries ago, crossing this by boat or over a rotten wooden walkway meant risking your neck.

The Roman “highway” and the arch nobody looks at

Before we talk about the devil, credit where credit is due. Look closely at the foundations and you will see enormous dark ashlar blocks that have been there since the year 10 BC. That was the Via Augusta, the AP-7 motorway of its day, connecting Rome with Cádiz.

In fact, most people cross the bridge, take a selfie at the highest point and turn back. Mistake. If you cross all the way to the Castellbisbal side, you come face to face with a Roman triumphal arch. It’s not as famous as the one in Barcelona, but it’s the genuine article. It was the gateway to the bridge, and it made very clear who was in charge around here. It’s a miracle it is still standing.

What we see today, that sharply pointed “donkey-back” profile, is the Gothic rebuild of the late 13th century (1283, for the purists). It’s a structure designed to survive the Llobregat’s brutal floods, letting the water through the side arches. And it worked… until the 20th century arrived.

Dynamite and reconstruction

The bridge withstood centuries of water, but it could not withstand the Republican retreat of January 1939. The central arch was blown up to slow the advance of Franco’s troops. For decades the bridge stood “one-armed”, until 1963, when it was faithfully rebuilt stone by stone. Get up close to the masonry and you can sometimes play at guessing which stones are “old” and which are “new”, though time has largely evened them out.

The contract with fine print

But let’s be honest: what brings us here is the folklore. The story told in Martorell is that of a velleta — a little old lady — who had to cross the river every day to fetch water from the spring. One day a flood swept away the rickety crossing she used, and the woman was left stranded.

That’s when the “Black Knight” appeared. He offered her a deal she couldn’t refuse: I’ll build you an indestructible stone bridge in a single night, and in exchange I keep the soul of the first one to cross it. The woman accepted, and the devil spent the night grinding away like a bricklayer, laying stone upon stone at an infernal pace.

By dawn, the bridge was ready. The devil waited on the far side, rubbing his hands, expecting the old woman. But she — who must have been more streetwise than the devil himself — pulled a cat out of her basket (some say black, others brown) and shooed it across at a run.

The animal shot across like lightning. The devil, dumbfounded, watched the contract fulfill itself: the first living being had crossed. He had to settle for the soul of a cat and vanished in clouds of sulfur, leaving the bridge standing right there.

Why do we love this story so much?

This legend has survived because we adore the idea of the little fish eating the big one. It is the victory of worldly wit over supernatural power.

Today, the Pont del Diable is a quiet place. No more legions, no carts, no bricklaying demons. It’s a perfect spot for sunset, when the golden light hits the ocher stone and the arch is mirrored in the water. If you pass through Martorell, stop. The views are worth it, and the history hangs in the air.

That said, just in case the legend holds a grain of truth and the devil is still waiting for a rematch… better let someone else cross first. You never know.

Key references (official sources)