Llers, the Village of Witches

Marc RL · · 2 min read

Catalunya is full of villages with mysterious stories, but few carry a reputation as strong as Llers, in the Alt Empordà. For centuries this small municipality has been known as the “village of witches”. Its legends, passed down through the generations, tell of women with supernatural powers, secret gatherings and magic rituals that still loom large in the local imagination.

A past steeped in superstition

During the Middle Ages and the early modern period, many women in Catalunya were accused of witchcraft. In Llers, those accusations were especially frequent. Witches were said to whip up storms, sicken the livestock and bring ruin upon the harvests. The tramuntana, the fierce north wind typical of the area, was seen as their ally: it helped them fly and gather at night without being seen.

The literary mark of Carles Fages de Climent

In 1924, the poet Carles Fages de Climent published Les bruixes de Llers (The Witches of Llers), a book of poems that gathers the village legends and gives them literary form. It was illustrated by a young Salvador Dalí, whose images, full of symbolism and fantasy, capture the magical, mysterious atmosphere of these stories perfectly. The book helped cement the fame of Llers as a singular place, full of charm and mystery.

Fes-te Bruixa: the festival that revives the legends

Today, Llers celebrates its bond with these stories through the Fes-te Bruixa fair (literally “become a witch”), held every May. For a few days the village transforms: there are esoteric markets, magic workshops, shows and activities for all ages. It is the perfect excuse for locals and visitors alike to soak up the magic of Llers and enjoy its cultural heritage.

More information: https://www.firabruixallers.cat

Visiting Llers: a walk through the past

Wandering the streets of Llers feels like travelling back in time. Its medieval castle, though in ruins, remains a silent witness to centuries of history. The cobbled streets and stone houses carry visitors to another era, and it takes little effort to picture the witches of old walking there under the light of the moon.

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